I’m in the high Arctic, far north of Norway at around 78º N latitude in a group of islands known collectively as Svalbard. For a few days I’m a guest on the Greenpeace ship Arctic Sunrise while we do a little investigating into the arrival of fishing ships into these waters as the ocean warms and fish like cod shift toward the top of the world. But today it’s something different. We’re going ashore on a wild island of bare rock and still-partly frozen snow patches called Amsterdam Island. They say there are walruses here.
First we get into our dry-suits, then into the small boats. Turns out we’ve found a place where we can clamber onto some rocks for a dry landing. Then the dry-suits come off and we walk around. Everywhere we look, we find evidence of changes.